Museum of Childhood & John Knox House

Two contrasting treasures face each other on this stretch of the Royal Mile. The Museum of Childhood, opened in 1955, claims to be the first museum in the world dedicated to the history of childhood — a delightfully nostalgic collection of toys, dolls, train sets and games spanning generations. Ironically, its founder, town councillor Patrick Murray, cheerfully insisted he didn't particularly like children. Across the street stands John Knox House, jutting out into the pavement with its timber gallery and hand-painted decoration — one of the oldest surviving houses in Edinburgh, dating from around 1470. Whether the Reformation preacher John Knox actually lived here is debated, but the association helped save the building from demolition in the 19th century. It genuinely was home to James Mossman, goldsmith and keeper of the royal mint to Mary, Queen of Scots — a loyalty that cost him his life when the Queen's cause fell. Keep going downhill. Just below the house you'll pass the World's End, the junction where the old city gate once stood — from here down, the Royal Mile becomes the Canongate. Follow it for about five minutes until you see a church with a curved gable on your left.