Hollow Church
The following is the story of Šuplja Crkva, a place where the destinies of kings, monks and peoples intertwined, and every stone hides traces of past centuries. This church, also known as the Church of Saint Peter and Moses, is not just another archaeological site – it is the heart of ancient Croatian history and the coronation hall of Croatian rulers.
Imagine standing east of ancient Salona, right next to the murmur of the Jadro River, on the ground where the first Christians built a basilica and cemetery back in the 6th century. At that time, this place was part of a picturesque necropolis, and later, in the 11th century, the Croats built an imposing three-nave basilica on these foundations, then the largest in this area, with characteristic early Romanesque features. Five pairs of columns divided the interior of the church into three naves, and the special feature was the three apses incorporated into the body of the building itself.
However, what makes Šuplja Crkva truly special is not only the architecture. Here, on October 8, 1076, King Dmitar Zvonimir was crowned, and the ceremony was led by the papal legate Gebizon – a clear sign of Rome’s political influence on the Croatian kingdom at the time. Imagine the scene: the king on the throne, the gathered nobles, priests, and the people – all witnesses to a historical moment that forever marked this place. Interestingly, some fragments of reliefs found in the church depict King Zvonimir receiving the adoration of his subjects, and parts of the altar railing are now built into the baptismal font of the Split Baptistery of St. John.
The name “Šuplja Crkva” came about when, during the wars between the Venetians and the Turks in the 17th century, the roof collapsed, and time and history began to blow through the remains of the walls. In a drawing from 1571, the church still had a bell tower and walls, but the roof had already disappeared. Next to the church there was a Benedictine monastery, whose abbot Urso was a close friend of King Zvonimir – perhaps this connection is the reason why this church was chosen for the coronation.
Particularly interesting: due to changes in the bed of the Jadro River and silt deposits from the St. Elijah stream, today the church's pavement is below the river level, which is a rare example of how nature can reshape a historical landscape. Archaeological research, which has been ongoing since 1927, has uncovered numerous finds, including Byzantine gold coins from the time of Emperor Heraclius – testimony to the turbulent times when Salona was losing its importance under the pressure of economic and political crises.
If you are interested in how life along the Jadro River continued after the Middle Ages, just a few steps away you can visit Gašpa's mill, which tells the story of the economic life of Solin from the 18th to the 20th centuries.
Audio guides available in:Hrvatski, English (British)