Trogir
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Croatia
Trogir is a city in central Dalmatia, located 25 kilometers west of Split, on a small island between the mainland and the island of Čiovo, with which it is connected by stone bridges. The city has a long history that dates back to the 3rd century BC, when it was founded by Greek colonists from the island of Vis. Over the centuries, Trogir has been influenced by the Greeks, Romans, Venetians and other cultures, which can be seen in its architecture and urban structure. The historic core of Trogir, which abounds in palaces, churches, towers and fortresses, is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List due to its exceptional preservation and cultural value. The city is known for its numerous cultural and historical monuments, among which the Cathedral of St. Lawrence with the portal of Master Radovan, the Kamerlengo fortress and the Ćipiko palace stand out. Trogir is today an administrative part of the Split-Dalmatia County and consists of several settlements, including the islands of Drvenik Veli and Drvenik Mali
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Points of interest
#1
Porta terra firma
You are standing right in front of Porta terra ferme, the former main city gate that led to Trogir from the mainland. At a time when the city was an island, separated by canals and surrounded by walls, this was the only land entrance. The gate was part of a defensive system that changed shape over time, and it was given its current appearance in the 17th century, when it was renovated in the late Renaissance style with a touch of Baroque. It was reached via a drawbridge that crossed a defensive canal. That canal no longer exists, and the walls that surrounded the city were removed in the 19th century. However, this gate has remained almost intact and today reminds us of a time when every entrance to the city had its own rule and purpose. Above it stands a statue of St. John of Trogir, a man who was not only a bishop but also a symbol of the city's protection. According to legend, when the Normans tried to attack Trogir, he appeared on the walls and with his blessing repelled the attack. Because of this, he became the protector of the city, and his statue is placed right here, above the passage. Today, these gates no longer protect the city, but they take you straight into its history.
#2
Garagnin Fanfogna Palace
In front of you is the Garagnin-Fanfogna Palace. Today it is the Trogir City Museum, and it was once the home of one of the most influential families in the city. It was not built in one moment, but was built as the power of the family to which it belonged grew. The Garagnins arrived in Trogir at the end of the 16th century from Venice as merchants. They quickly became part of the local nobility and began to invest in the space within the city walls. The real turning point came in the 18th century. Then the family connected with the Fanfogna nobles, which began to create the complex that we know today as the palace. It was built of several connected buildings, and different parts reveal traces of styles that emerged in different periods. The same building now houses the Trogir City Museum. It was opened in 1966, and its permanent exhibition guides visitors through the development of the city. In addition to exhibits that document everyday life, history can also be seen here through original drawings, records, personal belongings and the remains of buildings. Among them are stone fragments from the Roman era, discovered during various works and reconstructions. The museum does not only show what existed – it also shows how the city developed. 19th-century blueprints show that Trogir did not demolish in order to move forward, but rather built on what already had meaning. That is why the museum is not just a place to look, but also to understand the process the city has gone through. In addition to the permanent exhibition, exhibitions that connect the past and the present are regularly held here.
#3
Berislavić House
In front of you stands the Berislavić House. At first glance, it may look like just another stone building from the old town, but behind its walls begins a story of power, influence, and a man whose name has been written down in history. The house was built by the noble Berislavić family, who not only lived in Trogir - but also shaped public life. They did not stop at the local level. Their presence was felt in the church, administrative, and military structures, and all of this culminated with the birth of one family member - Petar Berislavić. Petar did not plan to be a military leader. He was raised for the priesthood, but the political situation left little choice. When he became the Croatian Ban in 1512, he took on responsibilities that went far beyond the borders of the city in which he was born. At a time when the Ottoman Empire threatened southeastern Europe, Petar stood at the head of the defense. For years, he organized operations and led battles, until he was killed in an ambush near Vražja gora in 1520. His death was not just a military loss – it shook political circles across Europe. And it all began here, in this house. If you look at the facade, you will see a series of stone coats of arms. Each one tells the story of a lineage, of different branches of the same family. In a medieval town, these symbols spoke as loudly as titles and words. They were not decoration – they were a message. Today, the Berislavić House is closed to the public.
#4
Cippico Palace
You are in front of the Cippico Palace, located opposite the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, and it did not face the square by chance. It was built to be seen – and for everyone to know who had power in this city. The family to which it belonged was not just wealthy. In the 15th century, the Cippicos played a key role in the political and cultural life of Trogir. They were local, but they did not stay local. Their most famous descendant, Coriolanus Cippico, best demonstrates this. He grew up within these walls, but he did not stay behind them. He became a military commander and humanist in the service of the Venetian Republic. He fought at sea, recorded what he experienced, and turned it into De bello Asiatico – a work that today is valid as a historical document and literary text in one. While he was writing about the battles, the palace was undergoing its greatest transformations. The family systematically bought the surrounding houses and connected them into a single whole. What you see today is the result of that expansion, and the eye-catching facade was shaped by Andrija Aleši – a sculptor who knew how stone could serve prestige. The triforia and the balcony on the east side were not placed for beauty. Every cut, every decoration was a message. They belonged to the world of Renaissance ideas, but they did not forget to show that they also belonged to the top of society. The inner courtyard hides an object you would not expect – a metal figure of a rooster. It was taken from an Ottoman galley captured at Lepanto. It is not a decoration, it is a war trophy and a warning. This family did not just participate in history because at one point, they dictated it. The palace is not open today. You cannot enter, but you can see enough - a place where ambition, politics, art and power lived under the same roof.
#5
City loggia and clock
You are standing in front of the Clock Tower, one of the buildings that the people of Trogir have used and looked at every day for centuries. At first glance, it seems simple, but behind it lies a story of time. The tower is actually the remains of the former bell tower of the Church of St. Sebastian, built in 1476, at the height of the plague epidemic, as a votive act of people seeking protection. The church in its original form no longer exists, but the tower remained and was given a new purpose. In the 15th century, it was converted into a clock tower, which lost its original sacral function, but gained an important role in the everyday life of the city. It no longer called for prayer, but showed the exact time - something that was then becoming crucial for organized city life. The tower is located right next to the City Loggia, a space where decisions were made, trials were held and gatherings were held. This proximity was not accidental - the clock determined when public debates began, when councilors gathered, when the turn came. A dial is placed on the facade, while inside is a winding and driving mechanism, which has been restored several times over the centuries, but has never lost its basic function. The clock was not an ornament. Its purpose was clear, concrete and useful – to provide orientation in a time when clocks were still a rarity. Even today, although it is no longer the only source of accurate time, the clock still works. The mechanism is regularly maintained, and the tower has not lost its significance as a landmark – not only in a spatial, but also in a symbolic sense.
#6
Cathedral of St. Lawrence
You are standing in front of the heart of Trogir – the Cathedral of St. Lawrence – whose construction began in 1213, on the foundations of an older early Christian basilica, destroyed in a Saracen attack in 1123. But the new church did not come into being all at once – it grew slowly, as styles, masters, political and religious contexts changed. That is why this cathedral today is not just Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance or Baroque – it is all of these together. It is Trogir. Although formally dedicated to Saint Lawrence, in the hearts of Trogir residents it often bears another name – the Cathedral of St. John. John of Trogir, a Benedictine and bishop from the 11th century, was remembered as the protector of the poor and the defender of the city. He died in 1111, and his burial place in the cathedral quickly became a shrine – a place of silent pilgrimage presence that still attracts attention today. On the western facade, you are greeted by Radovan's Portal, a masterpiece of medieval sculpture, completed and signed in 1240. It intertwines biblical scenes, works of people through the seasons, animal figures and mythological creatures. The interior of the cathedral has retained its Romanesque basilica structure – three naves, semicircular apses and strong stone columns. In the 15th century, the space was expanded with Gothic vaults and a sacristy, and then the chapel of St. John of Trogir was also decorated. The entire building is made of stone, with precise Renaissance forms shaped by local and Italian masters. The cathedral still lives today – through mass celebrations, daily visits, but also concerts that use its exceptional acoustics. Entrance is possible during mass, the doors are opened primarily to believers – because this is not just a monument, but an active community space. Since 1997, the cathedral, together with the historic center of Trogir, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
#7
Church of St. John the Baptist
You are standing in front of the Church of St. John the Baptist, one of the oldest preserved churches in Trogir, located next to the former northern city gate. It was built in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, at a time when Trogir was growing into a strong political and ecclesiastical center. Built in the spirit of Romanesque simplicity, without lavish decorations, it reveals its early function – probably a votive or smaller parish church, located right next to the entrance to the city. Archaeological finds of early Christian sculpture indicate that this space also had a religious role in much older periods, which gives the church a special continuity of holiness. The dedication to John the Baptist is no coincidence – he is a symbol of transition, spiritual renewal and a new beginning. In the Middle Ages, his figure was often associated with city entrances, springs and baptism, and here we find him right at the place where people entered Trogir – as a protector and guardian of the border between everyday life and the sacred. The church was partially destroyed over the centuries and never fully restored. Today, the remains of the walls, the apse and a few decorated stone fragments are visible. Although the interior has not been preserved, the fragments found suggest the existence of wall paintings or reliefs depicting baptisms.
#8
Monastery of St. Nicholas
You are at the site of the oldest active Benedictine monastery in Croatia, founded in 1064 at the instigation of Saint John of Trogir, whose legacy still lives on today. The monastery was built on the site of the former church of St. Domnius. New elements were carefully added, wings were whisper-quietly joined to existing structures, and the city gates were even moved to fit into this quietly growing whole. But beneath all the architectural layers, the core remained unchanged: a dedication to prayer, silence, and inner concentration. The Benedictine nuns rise before dawn and begin their day with contemplation, aware that true peace does not come from the outside world, but from within. Inside the monastery is the Kairos Collection – a space small in size but extremely powerful in meaning. The central exhibit is a relief of the young god Kairos, a unique Greek work from the 3rd century BC, depicting the deity of the moment – that elusive fragment of time that can change your life, but you have to catch it right when it approaches you. Legend has it: You can only catch Kairos by the tuft of hair as it comes, because when it passes – you have nothing left to catch. This symbol of transience, presence and vigilance fits perfectly into the monastic way of life, which sees every moment as an opportunity for inner awakening. In addition to Kairos, the collection also houses numerous sacred objects, paintings, reliquaries and manuscripts. Due to the contemplative life of its inhabitants, the monastery is not open to daily visits. However, the Kairos Collection can be viewed with prior notice.
#9
Marina Port
You are standing in front of Porta Marina – the southern city gate of Trogir, built in 1593 during the rule of the Venetian Republic. Although smaller and simpler than its northern counterparts, this gate had an extremely important role: it was the city’s exit to the sea, the coastal road and the daily life that took place along the waterfront. Unlike the defensive gates that protected the city from possible attacks, Porta Marina was not built for protection, but for practicality. It was used to bring in fresh food from ships, fishermen with nets and locals carrying goods to the market. Today, Porta Marina leads to the coastal promenade, where a view opens up of the channel that separates Trogir from the mainland. It still preserves its quiet symbolism: on the wall next to the gate is a relief of Saint John of Trogir – an 11th-century bishop and city patron, known for his brave defense of Trogir in difficult times. His figure is not here by chance – it was placed as a sign of protection for all who come and go by sea, as an eternal connection between the city and the sea.
#10
Waterfront
The Waterfront, which you are walking along, is the main city promenade that runs along the southern edge of the historic center, right next to the sea. The current appearance of the Waterfront was shaped during the 19th century, during the Austrian administration, when the development of the coastal parts of Dalmatian cities began. During the 20th and 21st centuries, the Waterfront was expanded through several modifications and sea embankments, which resulted in larger areas available for public use and enabled easier access for ships and tourist vessels. On one side of the Waterfront are historic Venetian palaces that testify to the important role of Trogir in the past, while on the other side it offers a view of the sea and nearby Čiovo. The development of the Waterfront includes the planting of palm trees that have become a recognizable visual element of the area and contribute to the pleasantness of the walk. The Waterfront is not only a transitory space but also a center of social and cultural activities. During the summer months, it becomes a venue for various events such as concerts and festivals, which further strengthens it as an important gathering place for residents and tourists.
#11
Dominican Monastery and Church of St. Dominic
In front of you, along the western shore of the old town core, rises the Dominican Monastery and Church of St. Dominic – a silent but powerful testimony to faith, knowledge and art that has lasted in Trogir for more than seven centuries. Founded in 1265, at a time when the Dominican order permeated Dalmatian towns, the monastery and its church soon became a center of preaching, teaching and care for the written word. The Church of St. Dominic, completed in the 14th century, is simple and austere, as befits a mendicant order – without luxury, but with the quiet nobility of the Gothic style. On the facade, however, stands out an exceptional relief of the Virgin Mary, the work of the sculptor Nikola Denta from 1372, like a gentle point of light on the stone facade. The interior holds true artistic treasures: the Renaissance tomb of the Sobota family, a work by Nikola Firentinac, and “The Circumcision of Jesus”, an oil painting by Palma the Younger from 1607. The monastery cloister, added in the 15th century, was the heart of the community – everyday life gathered around it: prayer, learning, copying, collecting city and church histories. During the Allied bombing in 1944, the north wing was destroyed and never rebuilt. However, the restoration of the remaining parts, which began in the 1970s, saved its core from oblivion. Today, although without a monastic community, the monastery and church remain open to the public.
#12
Kamerlengo Fortress
In front of you is the Kamerlengo Fortress – an impressive defensive structure of Trogir and one of its most photographed symbols. Located by the sea, on the southwestern edge of the old town core, it was built in the 15th century, after Trogir fell under the rule of the Venetian Republic. The fortress served as a military stronghold, but also as the residence of the Venetian camerlengo – the city governor, after whom it was named. Together with the nearby St. Mark’s Tower, Kamerlengo played a key role in monitoring the Trogir harbor and defending the city from the sea. In quieter times, the space inside the walls was also used for ceremonies and gatherings of citizens. The fortress has a trapezoidal floor plan, with four strong towers, patrol corridors and thick stone walls. The oldest part is the Kula od Veriga, built in the late 14th century, which was later included in the wider defense system. The walls of the fortress still bear reliefs of St. Mark and the coats of arms of officials from the time of its construction – including Doge Francesco Foscari and Prince Magdalene Contarini. In the past, it also housed the Chapel of St. Mark, weapons depots and crew quarters. Although the wooden floors and roof structures have deteriorated over time, the fortress has remained largely intact. Today, the Kamerlengo is open to visitors. You can climb its walls and enjoy panoramic views of the old town, the sea and the surrounding islands. In summer, concerts, theatre performances and film screenings are often held in the inner courtyard, giving it a new cultural function – but the character of a military fortress is still clearly present.
#13
Marmont's Gloriette
You are located along the seashore, on the south side of the old town center of Trogir, not far from the St. Mark's Tower and the Kamerlengo Fortress - right in front of the Marmont's Gloriette. It was built in the early 19th century, in 1808, during the French administration of Dalmatia, as a monument of gratitude under the leadership of General Auguste Marmont, the then governor of Dalmatia. The building represents one of the rare preserved traces of French rule in this part of Croatia. The neoclassical gloriette has a hexagonal ground plan with a simple colonnade of six Doric columns and was originally set in a shallow area, surrounded by the sea, connected to the mainland by a small bridge. It was designed as a representative viewpoint and gathering place, without a defensive function. The plan was to have a bust of Napoleon in its center, but this element was not realized. During the 20th century, due to the development of sports fields, the gloriette was moved a few dozen meters west of its original position. Stones from the old city walls were used for its construction, further connecting it to local history. The Marmont Gloriette symbolizes the period of modernization and administrative changes that the French authorities brought to Trogir and the wider region in the short period from 1806 to 1813. Today, the Gloriette is a protected cultural monument, offering visitors an insight into a lesser-known but important part of Trogir and Dalmatian history.
#14
St. Mark's Tower
In front of you is St. Mark's Tower – a stone guardian of Trogir overlooking the sea. Built at the end of the 14th century, at a time when the city was constantly threatened by danger from the sea, the tower was a key part of the defense system developed by the Venetians after they took power. Together with the Kamerlengo fortress, St. Mark's Tower closed the sea entrance to the Trogir harbor. A strong iron chain was stretched between them, which served as a real obstacle in times of danger – ships without permission could not pass. It was a defense without compromise. The details on its exterior are also unique – the Venetian lion of St. Mark (a symbol of Venice) was depicted in relief and the coat of arms of Prince Antonio de Canal, whose reign marked the completion of the tower's construction at the end of the 15th century. This lion was later severely damaged, because in 1932, young men demolished it in an "incident" of a pro-Italian nature, since it symbolized Venetian rule. Within the massive stone walls of the tower were five “casemates” – small rooms for soldiers with round openings, so-called loopholes, which enabled the effective defense of all approaches and the elimination of “dead angles”. Such a distribution of defensive positions was extremely advanced for that time and increased the safety of the defenders. The tower was not only a barrier – but also the eyes of the city. Signals were transmitted from it to other observation posts, announcing the arrival of ships or warning of threats. When there was no state of war, it served as a storage for gunpowder, weapons and equipment. Over time, the defensive function waned, but the tower remained present – first as a warehouse, then as a landmark for fishermen and sailors. During the Homeland War, it was reactivated as an observation post. After more than six centuries, it once again looked out to sea with the same purpose: to protect the city. Today it stands as a silent witness to all the times that Trogir has gone through – from the threats of pirates to modern conflicts.
#15
Bell tower of St. Michael's Church
In front of you stands the bell tower of the former church of St. Michael, built in the 13th century. This is the only visible remnant of the parish church that for centuries gathered believers from the eastern side of Trogir. The church itself was demolished in the 19th century due to the redevelopment of the city space, but the bell tower has been preserved and is recognizable in the structure of the surrounding streets. Next to the church, there was once a Benedictine nunnery that played an important role in the everyday life of this part of the city. Later, the church was also used for the needs of the monastery, which shows how the way of use and ownership of this complex changed over the centuries - part of the buildings passed into the hands of the canons. The bell tower was not only important for religious ceremonies; it also served as a watchtower from which the approach to the city could be observed and dangers could be noticed in time. Architecturally, the bell tower of St. Michael is characterized by its solid, cubic form and rough stonework. What sets it apart is the fact that it was never upgraded or stylized according to later fashion or architectural trends. All original Romanesque elements have been preserved, which is why it is today considered an authentic and rare example of medieval architecture in Dalmatia. Today, the bells from the bell tower are occasionally rung on religious holidays, thus preserving the connection with the centuries-old tradition of this area.
#16
Church of Our Lady of Carmel and remains of the city walls
You are standing in front of the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, a modest but significant religious building built in the early 17th century. It is located on a hill above the former suburb of Trogir, in a position from which the land approach to the city was monitored for centuries. There were smaller places of worship on this site as early as the Middle Ages, but at a time of increasingly frequent land threats, the local community decided to build a new church and dedicate it to Our Lady of Mount Carmel – the protector of soldiers, sailors and the dying. The feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, July 16, has become one of the most important days in the Trogir calendar. Processions with the icon of Our Lady, led by women in traditional costumes, gathered believers from all parts of the city, and the vowed silence of the men walking along the walls was a powerful symbol of joint prayer for the protection of the family and the city. According to legend, during one such procession in the 18th century, a sudden rain chased away an enemy patrol – an event that the faithful experienced as a sign from Our Lady. The church has a simple single-nave interior with a main altar dedicated to Our Lady. The side altars were added later, and the bell tower along the facade was built in the 18th century and served as an observation post for a time. Although it suffered damage during the Homeland War, the church never closed its doors – it was here, far from the city center, that peace masses were held in the 1990s. Right next to the church, you can see the remains of medieval defensive walls, now partly incorporated into the structure of the surrounding houses. Their simple, dry-stone construction, reinforced with mortar, testifies to modest but resistant architectural solutions. Even in the 20th century, locals called them “the ramparts of Our Lady”, believing that it was the presence of this church that gave strength and protected this part of the city through all historical trials.
#17
Fortin Park
Fortin Park is located on a hill above the old town of Trogir. It was named after the former fortress that existed there and served to control the access to the city from the mainland. The fortress was probably built in the 17th century, during the Venetian rule, as part of the wider defense system of Trogir. Today, there are no visible remains of the fortress itself at this location, as the area was converted into a park that was landscaped in the 20th century and opened to public use. Fortin Park offers a clear view of the old town, the coast and the surrounding islands, which makes it an important place for sightseeing and walking. In addition to being adapted to the recreational needs of citizens and tourists, the park also contains a memorial dedicated to Croatian soldiers, which is located among the greenery and consists of stone columns and a cross. Today, it serves as a space for peaceful walks, rest and meetings. In addition, the park offers pleasant living conditions thanks to its well-maintained walkways and vegetation, as well as its proximity to the main access roads and the bridge connecting the historic city center with the mainland. This makes it an important part of the city's infrastructure and a place that promotes the quality of life of both residents and visitors to Trogir.
#18
Remains of the bastion in the north
You are standing in front of the remains of the northern bastion, which was built in the 16th century as part of the modern defensive system to protect the city from the landward side. The bastion had a wide, low form with sloping walls to make it more resistant to cannon fire. Its pentagonal layout allowed for effective defense of the most vulnerable part of the city. The bastion contained areas for mounting cannons and storage for ammunition and equipment. Internal corridors connected it to the rest of the defense system, which enabled rapid communication and the movement of soldiers and supplies. During the rule of the Venetian Republic, the bastion played a significant role in the defense of Trogir and in holding military exercises. Although it lost its strategic importance after the 18th century, parts of the structure were then adapted for civilian needs, and some parts were buried or demolished in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, the remains of the foundations, lower walls and parts of the former trenches and cannon platforms can be seen, which confirms the importance of this site in the development of fortification architecture and confirms the role of Trogir in regional historical conflicts.